Why are Costume Sizes Always Different? And Why is Picking Sizes Always so Hard?

Satin Stitches | Aug 25, 2008 | 0

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One of the hardest things to do, once you have chosen costumes-is it-what to do about the sizes?

If you are working with kids of all ages, this could be a daunting task.  If you are a studio owner or dance teacher in charge of this assignment, you probably face this year after year.  Is it a guessing game every year?  If you are new to this responsibility or if you would like some tips on what to do, here goes.

As with regular clothes, there is no regulation in sizing.  As stated in Wikipedia, US standard clothing sizes were developed from statistical data in the 1940s-1950s. However, as a result of various cultural pressures...North American clothing sizes have drifted substantially away from this standard over time, and now have very little connection to it.

Our government has commissioned studies about sizing since then, but has never acted on the information that it has gathered.   All companies are free to establish any measurement combinations that it chooses, as their official sizes.  

Is this a good thing or a bad thing?  Well, it is bad thing, when you want to easily pick your costumes or clothing pieces, by a generic, same size option.   It is a good thing, when you are able to find a company that caters to your specific measurements, with their sizing.

When I worked for Minneapolis bridge apparel manufacturer Daj Inc., I worked with the head designer to maintain our corporate sizing and to occasionally adjust it.  When we heard, from our sales representatives, over and over again, that we could sell more long sleeves shirts if we would add an inch in length to the sleeve, that is what we did.  We added that extra length.  Eventually every company adjusts their sizing, based on their customers needs.

Another reality in the world of sizing, is that some companies may make their garments larger, and keep it labeled as a smaller size, to indulge the vanity in us all.  How many of us make a purchase of a pair of jeans, because we were thrilled that we could fit into a size that we normally cannot?  It happens more than you would think!

The opposite reality is that inexpensive manufacturers cut costs, to keep prices down, by eliminating excess fabric.  If slightly smaller garment pieces will fit on a piece of fabric better, well, it is done.  Saving a few inches of fabric, multiplied by a thousand or two garments, can add up.

These are the realities of what influences garment sizing.  So what do you do about it?

Be aware of the measurements that are used for each company you buy from.  Look at their charts, to see what the difference is, between each size.  Will the sizes fit all your dancers?  If not, find another costume, unless you have a super talented sewing person that you can count on to use their magic wand to take in costumes or let out costumes.  Letting out usually involves reconstructing the costume by adding additional fabric, which you may or may not have.

Always remember that costumes can be taken in, more easily than let out, but that not all styles can be adjusted.  Only your talented sewing person, upon analyzing the construction, can let you know if either is possible.  Trust them, and listen to them.  Do not expect miracles!

Your best option for picking sizes, is to be able to borrow sizing samples.  Satin Stitches has been providing these for years.  Several other companies may have this option for you.  I highly recommend that you take advantage of this service, whenever you can!  It is not fool proof, though, as you will not have the actual costumes to try on, but if you follow the companys directions, you should be successful.

If you are faced with having to measure, your best bet is to stick with one company, or with a minimum of companies, preferably ones that you have worked with before.  Hopefully you will know what to expect, with their sizing.  

Beware of inexperienced companies that may not have the expertise to maintain their standard sizing.  Smaller or emerging companies may not have computerized patternmaking.  Or if they do, they may not have the expertise to work with more than SMALL, MEDIUM AND LARGE sizes.  I have worked with a vast array of sizes throughout my fashion career.  

At Satin Stitches, we literally have hundreds of sizes that we can use for our clients.  We offer XXS to XXL child sizes and XS to 6X adult sizes, including special mens sizing.  I have developed these sizes over many years.  You can see the measurements for all of these sizes Online.  AND, we offer SHORT, MEDIUM and LONG in each and every size!  We also will cut X-LONG and special sizes, when needed.   How do your costume companys charts compare?

Plan for growth.  If you are working with young people, these kids will grow!  Have fun guessing how much!  If you are measuring and ordering in September and will not expect your costumes until 6 months later, you may have lots of growing going on.  Maybe not so much with high school kids, but elementary and junior high, for sure!  So make sure that you choose sizes that have some grow room in them.

The first step for sizing, is to look at the company size chart that you plan to order from.  Many charts will have maybe 2 inches allowed per size, in chest or hip measurements, for example.  If your dancer measures 30 inches and a particular size state 30-31 inches, this would seem to be the perfect option.  If your dancer measures 31.5 inches and the next size up says 32-33 inches, then this may possibly be the best choice, especially if you want to allow for growth.  Again, your choices will be better, if you are familiar with the company, to know if they cut things tight or generous.  Always ask your sales representative what they suggest.  Hopefully they are aware of how their companys sizes run.

What are the MOST IMPORTANT measurements to consider?  

After all, your dancers measurements will not match perfectly, to any chart.  Really, the length of the torso is probably most important.  With stretch costumes, there is forgiveness in the widthwise fit, more so than with the lengths.  Most companies list girth measurements.  Girth is the torso length.  

Check each companys chart to see how they want you to measure.  Some suggest measuring at the neck, some at the arm and some in the middle, on the shoulder.  But all have you measure the entire body, under the crotch, for this measurement.  The girth is a combination of what we measure, at Satin Stitches, the back neck length-or upper torso, and the rise measurement-or lower torso.  

How to measure?  

See instructions for each company that you are ordering from.  Measure your dancers with their leotards on, not over street clothes.  Measure where the charts show you to measure.  Measure snuggly, but not too tight.  Take the measurements as a team.  Have someone do the actual measurements, and someone to record the measurements.  DO NOT HAVE DIFFERENT PEOPLE MEASURE, as everyone measures slightly different.

Ask your costume company for tips on how their sizes run, or what styles might fit certain figure types better, or even what costumes have more stretch in them.  Different fabrics can have different stretch levels to them.  Costumes with sequin bands or other details may restrict the stretching, so you should be aware of these possible issues.  Being able to see, feel and stretch an actual costume sample would help you in this area.

Picking sizes, especially with many different companies, can be very tricky.  Find out what your options are, if you guessed wrong for a dancer or two.  Will you be able to exchange the incorrect size for a better choice, in a timely fashion?  Or will you be faced with having to make due, or alter to fit?  I recommend finding out, BEFORE you order, not when your recital is in one week, and you have no time to do anything.  I always recommend having a VERY talented sewing person on staff, or available for all your tentative fitting issues.  

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Teacher, Enthusiast, Parent, Retailer, Studio, Costume Sizes, Costumes (all tags)