Fabrics 101: A Tutorial from Satin Stitches

Satin Stitches | Jun 13, 2008 | 2

So many choices - how do you pick the "right" fabric?

I hear it all the time. I am not a seamstress-I know nothing about fabrics!  

Well, I am a costume designer and I know all about fabrics!  That is part of my job.  I know what fabrics will do and what they will not do.  I know that you need to design with the specific attributes of a particular fabric in mind, and that you cannot make fabrics do what they do not want to do!

Any time you are considering creating a custom dance costume, one of your big considerations should be fabric.  There are so many aspects of fabrics to consider.

Color.  Weight.  Sheen.  Texture.  Different types of fabrics are more suitable for different styles of dance performances.  You would like your fabric to compliment your dancing, not to fight it.  You want just the right movement in the fabric.  Bold dance movements demand bold fabrics.  Gentle dance moves beg for gentle fabrics!

There are lightweight, mid-weight and heavyweight fabrics.  There are sheer, semi-sheer, opaque and dense fabrics.  Fabrics can cling, and drape, or just create a shape by themselves.  

There are no good or bad fabrics, just fabrics that are more suitable to create a certain look or visual.  We all know that tulle (netting) is traditional for tutus. It is stiff and creates a shape.  It can bounce.  The direct opposite would be chiffon.  Chiffon is so soft and flowing.  It moves so softly and can flutter.  Obviously soft and fluttering fabric is suitable for soft and flowing dance moves.

There are also fibers.  There are natural fibers such as cotton, silk, hemp, linen, and wool.  There are synthetic fibers such as nylon, spandex, acrylic, acetate, polyester, and rayon.  These man-made fibers are generally more prevalent in performance costumes, because of a couple of things.  Synthetic fabrics are easier to take care of, especially creating a lack of the need to press them.  They stay more wrinkle-free which makes them easier to wear, time after time.  Spandex of course, has the elastic stretch that is so useful for tight-fitting garments.  These days, almost every fiber has been combined with spandex, to create better performance fabrics.  Different combinations of fibers can create all types of results.  

There are different types of weaves, or different types of fabrics.  Satin is a type of fabric that has a very smooth, shiny surface.  Crepe is a type of fabric that is dull or matte and somewhat textured.  Other types of fabrics include twills or gabardines, which are the standard weave of mens regular street pants.  Gauze is a very open weave, rather than the aforementioned twill, which is a much tighter weave.

Which brings me to the difference between woven fabrics and knitted fabrics.  Woven fabrics are created by horizontal and vertical fibers that intertwine.  Knitted fabrics are created like your grandmas homemade scarves, created by knitting the fibers together.  This knitting process automatically will add some stretch into the garment created.  Before spandex was invented, tighter fitting garments were created by knitting fibers, resulting in styles such as nylon stockings, long-johns and polo shirts.  What the invention of the spandex did, was to create the retention of the original shape of the garment, so leggings no longer bag out, but stay tight to the body.

One misconception about fabrics, is that a type of fabric is not the same as the fiber.  I often hear someone speaking of silk, when what they are thinking of is satin.  Or when someone thinks that satin is always as stiff and heavy as the fabric commonly referred to as Bridal satin.  A satin finish can be created on a heavyweight fabric such as polyester Dutchess satin, or on a lightweight fabric such as silk charmeuse.  

I have realized, when talking with a non-sewers, and even some amateur hobby sewers, that it is best to try to find out exactly what type of fabric they are talking about, and if they are using their terms correctly.  A common term for lightweight, decorative flags that are used in colorguard or marching auxiliary units would be silks.  These flags are NOT silk, but they are polyester.  But they are silky, so hence, the common term.

Most dancers are more interested in the feel of a fabric, the drape, and movement created by the fabrics, and hopefully, they leave the rest to their designer, to help them choose the correct fabrics for their needs.

My most important advice is to let the fabrics match the style of dance.  Do not pick fabrics that fight their nature.  Soft, flowing fabrics should be used for soft, flowing dance moves.  Stiffer fabrics can be used for dance routines that can have severe movements.  Use matte fabrics when you do not need or want shine.  Use stretch, knit fabrics when you need a body-conforming look.  Combine fabrics to create a great look.  

When picking colors, refer to my blog, The Wonderful Wild World of Color, from March 19, 2008.  

There are so many things to consider when choosing fabrics for your dance performance costumes.  Let your costume designer guide you in the right direction!

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