Measuring 101: How and Why-Tips from Satin Stitches

Satin Stitches | Dec 30, 2008 | 2

The measuring tape CAN be your friend!

In order to be able to choose the proper sized costumes for your dancers, you need to be able to measure properly. Unfortunately, correct measuring is becoming a lost art.

Why? Because sewing, itself is becoming a lost art, and correct measuring is part of what trained sewers have learned to do.  

Where do you learn to measure properly?  

I learned some measuring techniques in sewing class, back in junior high. I learned more in 4-H, in a sewing project group, mentored by experienced sewers. In my fashion design classes at college, I learned much more about how to measure, and during my industry design jobs, I learned even more. But for the ordinary citizen, learning measuring techniques can be hit or miss.

How have you learned to measure? Do you feel confident that the measurements that you take, are correct?

Generally, every catalog company has a drawing or a picture that illustrates what and where to measure, for their costumes. It is important to study this information. But if you want additional, helpful information to help you properly measure, to get the best fit on the costumes you order, keep reading.

The first rule, is to check out how you are asked to measure, courtesy of the catalog companys information.

Secondly, realize that everyone DOES measure slightly differently. This is VERY important to remember. Never have different people measure for the same costumes. Having all dance team members measure themselves is almost useless. Every one will measure differently, and it will be very hard to come up with correct sizes. Consistency is very important. It is easier to spot typos and inaccuracies this way.

Here is what you should do.

You need a flexible measuring tape. Some companies offer complimentary tape measures. At Satin Stitches, we have a retractable, wind up kind, but any tape that is fully flexible will work.

Make sure that you are measuring from the 0 inch end. It is easy to measure backwards, starting at the 60 inch end. If you start measuring from the 0 inch end, a hip measurement might be 40 inches, but reading from the wrong side or end, it could show 20 inches. This is a very easy mistake, but can obviously cause some problems.

Your dancer should be wearing a practice leotard or something similar, and wearing the type of undergarments that they will be wearing with their costume. Never measure over thick, bulky garments, such as sweats, or jeans and a sweater. You will not get the correct measurements.

Have a helper to record your measurements. This way you can concentrate on the measuring. It is easier to lose track of your measurements, when you have to stop and record the numbers. It is much easier to keep the rhythm of your task, if you have a helper. This helper needs to write clearly, making sure there is no problem deciphering what each correct measurement number is. Have a chart to fill in, either from your costume company, or make your own chart. Randomly listing measurements on a blank sheet of paper is a recipe for trouble. So start out right, with a chart to fill in.

You should hold your measuring tape snuggly, but not too tight. For stretch garments, you do not need to measure the chest expanded with air, as you might, with a non-stretch garment. Have your dancers stand, with good posture, but relaxed.

Hold your tape parallel to the floor for all of the width measurements that are needed. These measurements include the bust or chest, natural waistline, and hips and thighs. At Satin Stitches, we also prefer to get the tummy-or high hip measurement, which is halfway between the natural waistline and the fullest part of the hips.  

A helpful measurement for a bra-top or short crop top, is the underbust measurement, which is taken right under the bustline.

Other helpful measurements include the neck measurement-taken at the base of the neck, which is the circumference of the neck; the arm width, which is the circumference of the widest part of the upper arm, at the armpit; and the arm length, which should be taken from where a sleeve attaches at the shoulder to the finished length, which should be about a half an inch longer than the wrist bone.

At Satin Stitches, we ask that you take a back-neck, length measurement along with a rise measurement. Most costume companies combine these two measurements, asking for the girth measurement. The girth measurement is taken from the shoulder, under the crotch, and back up to the shoulder.  Where exactly on the shoulder? Some companies want this taken at the outside of the shoulder, others at the center of the shoulder, and some at the neck-or the inside of the shoulder. You must refer to each company, to see where exactly they want their girth measurement taken.

For pants or long skirts, you will be asked for an inseam or outseam measurement, or simply a skirt finished length. The inseam is taken from the crotch seam, down to the finished length of the pant, which should be generally to the floor, in stocking feet, or higher, if you wish your pants shorter. The outseam is properly taken from the natural waistline, again, to the floor, in stocking feet, or to the desired length. A safe finished length on a pant, is to the seam of where the heel attaches to the shoe, unless high heels are worn.

The natural waistline is a very important location to measure. It is not located with any particular relevance to the bellybutton.  It is where you find the narrowest part of the body.  It is NOT where you wear your pants!  It does not mean that this is where the waistline will be cut to, on your costume, but it tells the manufacturer what your natural waistline measurement is.

If you want an accurate back-neck length and an accurate rise measurement, you should put an elastic band or string at the natural waistline, then you will be able to find the location of the back-neck length and the exact location of the rise measurement, which is from the natural waist in the back, under the crotch and up to the natural waist in the front.

The bra cup size is another useful measurement, but it is preferable to just list the cup size rather than measure for it. Hopefully, your dancers know their correct cup size. It is most important to know when your dancer has a D or larger size, as most costumes do not accomodate this size, and you need to be careful to choose wisely for these dancers.

Years ago, I created a video-taped demonstration of how to measure, and I currently have it available on a cd.  If any one would like a copy of this, it is free for the asking, I would just appreciate reimbursement for the postage.

After your measurements are taken, it is then time to choose your sizes. The most important width measurement is the hip measurement, with pants, shorts, and tight skirts or dresses, with the length, or girth measurements equally as important. Remember that it is much easier to alter by taking in or shortening, rather than trying to make something bigger or longer. When your dancers measurements fall between sizes, generally choose the larger size. When in doubt, check with your costume manufacturer, for their help and suggestions when you are just not sure which size to choose. Sometimes it depends on the style, so ask for their advice.

Happy measuring-do not let the measuring tape scare or intimidate you!

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